Bonnie Tyler

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dpzIl48YFEk

Laughed at this so many times over the weekend, classic gold......

Kerry

Finally a crack at Howling Ridge, weekend in the most beautiful part of the country with the best weather in ages thrown in. Drive down Sat morning, all the usual chat en route buzzing about the days ahead. Decided to not do Howling on the Sat as time was against us and we had the same weather due Sunday, good call number 1.

Spent the day rock climbing on the Gap of Dunloe on a beauty of a crag called Céim, well do-able routes (4c to E1) on a sheltered overhanging slab. I hadn't been out for a while so this was a great warm up/refresher, we tended to focus on problems and roping techniques more than routes, great days work. Pats gf Laura took the first fall of the weekend crossing back over the stepping stones of the River Loe but was cool enough to laugh it off. Kate Kearney's Cottage for a bit of Seafood Chowder and a few pints of Ale on the way home. Staying Travel Inn Fossa, considered camping but the nights in November tend to be fresh.

Sunday morning and we all had matching sore heads after crashing a 50th birthday party in the village pub... Breakfast didn't help matters as it looked to be soaked overnight in Uranium, green eggs gave us a slight sickly feeling as we headed up into Hags Glen, sun was out and the carpark looked busy.

Top of Heavenly Gates

We took our time and paced the hours up to Heavenly Gates stopping at the emergency shelter built for stricken climbers, sun on our backs most of the way we reached the base of Howling. Carrantuohill looked to be covered in cloud and Sunday walkers were making their way down after an early bird start.

Emergency Shelter

Fueled by Jelly Snakes, coffee and Surf Seeds, the 1400 foot climb loomed above us, we racked up and enthusiasticly made our way up the first 50m pitch, we believed 9 pitches moving in a group of three should see us to the top within the 3 hour mark. It was now 2.30pm and with the days getting shorter this meant a descent in the dark with head-torches was a defo. Weather started to close as the dusk set in, with long belay stops the cold also played a factor. Weather reports had given a wind chill of -5 on the peak but we were psyched, Pat led, cos he was the only one who could. (Pat is a climbing and safety instructor, the best rock climber I know but not the best there is, however he is one of the best all rounders in the country. Mountaineering, alpinism, ice climbing, navigation, mountain leader skills and general cop on in the hills, if you were to get into trouble at any point, you are pretty much covered in getting to safety. Or as a client of his discovered on Lugnaquilla, he can dig a mean snow hole that will keep you alive for 2 days!!). The climbing was rated V.Diff, hard in full boots carrying a pack.

1st pitch

Second pitch was much the same, third pitch a light scramble with little need for protection. The rock though was brittle at best, the flakes of granite came away too easily and rock fall was happening all too often.

2nd pitch

Pat traversed and started up the fourth pitch, leaving myself and Laura hanging on a safe spot belaying, Pat was taking his time and we knew he was approaching the crux of the climb (hardest bit), he was out of sight and the rope was not moving. Maybe he was having difficulty placing gear, maybe he had fallen, maybe he was taking a crap? We light heartedly joked about how long we leave it before ringing mountain rescue. 15 to 20 minutes passed then we started shouting to Pat, nothing. A few nervous wise cracks later and concern set in. Eventually Pat called, he hadn't moved now in ages and asked us to make our way around to him. Now we had only climbed 500 feet at best but with the drop of Heavenly Gates a fall would be about 1000 feet in total. Pat had fallen.

The drop

A flake had come free and he dropped 20 feet to a ledge and onto his back. Muchos muchos shaken. His pack had taken the worst of the impact, he landed upside down and was pointing head first down the face. Oooooooops. He was clearly freaked but was standing with minimal injuries. After a bit of soul searching and reality, we knew it might now be dark by the time we topped out, the conditions of the rock were crap and Pat feared more for us as our level of competency was far less than his. If we made it over the crux, there was no turning back and we would be committed to the compete route like it or not. Abseil down - Good call number 2.

The abseil was long but well exciting, in fact probably the highlight of the trip, there was a lot of tension just before this but a lot of relief as we made the bottom. We made it to the base of Heavenly and started the walk out, it was dark. Pat was a bit sore and the walk out took longer than expected, we still had a 4 - 5 hour drive home to Dublin. I met with Michael O'Connor (a local farmer and genuine nice guy) and walked to the carpark at Lisleibane, we turned down the offer of a shower but I will be back to stay up in his during the coming winter season.

HAPE and HACE

HAPE, high altitude pulmonary edema, is the gathering of fluids in the lungs. It kills. If an afflicted person dosn’t die from HAPE, it is probably because the early signs were recognised and that person descended immediately. If you are going to go into the high altitudes you should know the signs of HAPE. Take this stuff seriously.

HACE, high altitude cerebral edema, occurs when fluids gather in the brain. I think you get the idea. Bad stuff here again. It is important to know the early indications and descend immediately at the first signs of HACE.

There are a number of drugs which may prove helpful in buying time while getting a climber stricken with HAPE or HACE down. Collectively they form the small but high octane pharmacy no high alt climber should be without.

Studies show that most people can go to 12,000 feet without difficulty. Between 12,000 and 22,000 some of us can acclimatise. Above 22,0000 feet elevation your clock starts running down. It may run down quickly, or it may run down slowly. But to be certain it is running down. We are not meant to be at these altitudes and our bodies go to great lengths to communicate this to us. Light-headedness, nausea, sleep disorders, and a ferocious caloric burn rate all become commonplace. You probably can’t eat as many calories as your body burns at high altitude, so it starts feeding on itself. Substantial weight loss, and loss of muscle mass are typical.
As a result, most high altitude attempts incorporate a strategy designed to spend as little time as possible in the thin air. A climber will acclimatise with hikes or load carries in the 12,000 to 17,000 ft elevations for many days, all the while beefing up his physiology. Then he will move into position at high camp and hope for that "Blue Bird Day," clear skies and no wind. Thats when he takes his shot and gets down. Success or not, he gets down. It is a very bad idea to linger, and being weathered in at high camp is among the least favorable outcomes one may encounter.

Strategy on Elbrus features a series of acclimatisation hikes. Each one taking me higher, then descending to sleep low that night. Two of these hikes will have us returning at days end to the comfort of a high mountain ski lodge. Nice. A great deal of thought has gone into how we will acclimatise in the most measured and sensible ways. We will also know the reassurance of having highly trained and experienced Guides leading us ..

Here we go again - Mount Elbrus - Russia

I have had 6 months to settle after Nepal, this time was spent trying not to plan or foresee any future travels to far off lands, it took a year to plan the Himalayas and I needed a rest from it. Then came the opportunity to go to Russia and climb the highest mountain in Europe, one of the Seven Summits,( basically the highest mountain on each of the seven continents.) WILL I, WONT I ???? I have a couple of options regards logistics and costings, I am not an avid fan of raising cash for a charity and using this as a springboard for my own pleasures but rest assured on this occasion I might have to.  I have been invited by a group from the UK on a large guided expedition flying through Moscow on the 11th July 2012. This costs a good bit. I have been invited to go with a guided charity group and raise 4k for a great cause. This costs little. And I am trying to blag on an expedition with an unguided crew who are doing the complete Seven Summits and would love to join as a hanger on for this leg of their journey. This costs in between the other two somewhere.  My mind has already boarded the flight..........

First of all, Mt Elbrus is tall. Compared to the better known European summits The Eiger (13,025ft), The Matterhorn (14,692ft), or Mont Blanc (15,771), Elbrus (18,481ft) is singularly monumental. I have been to Kala Patar above Everest Base Camp in the Himalayas and stood at 5545m or (18,192ft), and put my body under the stress of altitude. That altitude means thin air, cold temperatures, and nasty weather. I'll talk about each of those in this blog. The sum total of these and other considerations is illustrated in this 2005 account;
On May 9, nine people died and two more disappeared on their way down from the peak of Elbrus. Sixty rescuers, including volunteers, took part in the search, and so far, some 389 journalists have written about it. Approximately 30 people die every year in these mountains of Russia; of them, ten or so die on Elbrus. This time Elbrus has gathered its annual norm in one serving.

Kit update...

Been stocking up for forthcoming trips, have a list as long as your arm but gradually gathering bits n bobs monthly, will leave test reviews when I finally get around to using them.


Basically shaving away all possible metal to make a lightweight biner for rock, ice and alpine routes, chose DMM Prowire as my first set. Went for one of the lightest on the market to balance out my chubby ass. DMM's original lightweight quickdraw, the DMM Prowire offers all the advantages of a wiregate karabiner at a reasonable enough price. Man in shop says "If you want to lighten your rack, buy these. If you want DMM quality and design heritage, buy these. If blue is your favourite colour, buy these!" Sold!

To a seasoned stalwart, a rope probably has a soul, a heart and a gentle touch. To me its a rope, so went for a coated 60m Beal 10.2mm jobby. Looks good in purple and feels like it will hold my weight if I decide to fall, it might see daylight come Thursday in Kerry.
From Backcountry.com:
"Representing the divine balance between durability and low weight, the Beal Edlinger II is sure to give you wings on your next project. With a 10.2 mm diameter, this cord travels smoothly over rock and through carabiners, providing a lightweight, easy-to-clip connection to the stone. So, if you're looking for a rope that's not too thin, yet not too heavy - the Edlinger is your ticket."

Was toying with going all out and buying a 4 season tent that weighed the same as my toothbrush, pure overkill with a price tag to match, for the first time ever I think I went with the sensible option. I have so far this year needed a tent on zero occasions. Birthday coming up so kids bought me the Vango Banshee 200, a lightweight tent that is designed for backpackers, trekkers and mountain enthusiasts, the tent will accommodate two people but it is a tight squeeze and a bit Brokeback Mountain if shared. However, the tent was never designed to be roomy, more to economise on weight and pack size for those needing to carry as little weight as possible.

The Vango Banshee has a couple of key features which make it such a popular choice of tent. Firstly, it is lightweight and portable whilst the small pack size is also a key component. The tent is also very stable in the wind and any other forms of adverse weather conditions due to the fact it has a low profile and a solid design structure. Picked the red one, something different and if I ever do get into trouble I gathered it would be easier to spot from a chopper than the green one. Genius.

The JetBoil Flash/Group Cooking System takes fast, light, and efficient to a whole new level in this updated version of a revolutionary camping stove. Whether you’re melting snow in Alaska, making coffee on a big wall, or boiling water for dehydrated food on a backpacking trip, this stove should be my smallest and warmest back country friend.

Have also gone for the 1.5L pot add on, to rustle up some gourmet delights. Key features include a one-liter insulated mug, piezo auto ignition, water temperature indicator, and a lock that secures the stove and pot in one stable unit. There hasn't been a lot of good options until now, so this little gem of a lightweight stove caught my eye. They could maybe partner with Crocs to offer a line of coordinated camp shoes! Would look good in any kitchen but on first impressions it needs to man up a bit for the rugged outdoors. Grrrrrrrrrrrr.

When it comes to sunnys I is worse than any woman with bags/shoes..... I had been wearing Oakley Fuel Cells for the past year but hated them, at a cost of £135  it was becoming an expensive hobby. Stumbled across Sunwise http://www.sunwise.co.uk/ , a pioneering British brand who is making cracking shades at a fraction of the price. To date the most expensive pair I have bought cost £35 and were Polarised.  Started on the Windrush, come with 4 sets of lenses and a great pair to pop in the pocket and not worry about. The Oakleys have a habit of when you sweat, it runs down the inside of the glass.... these bad boys don't. 

Windrush

Picked up the Bude Polarised in White for a steal, nice casual shades that perform well and are nice for driving in.

Bude Polarised

Next t be ordered were the Waterloos, another Polarised lens with Chromofusion, basically darkens the brighter it gets, really liked the flat arm profile that sits well below a climbing helmet or cap.

Waterloo

Macgillycuddy's Reeks - Carrauntoohil

Update: Trip cancelled, climbing buddy got in a days work with a group on Dalkey Quarry instructing. 


Shoulder still aches badly, physio is gonna rip my nuts off as she asked me to lay up for 2 weeks. Toe is on the mend and only about a week away from healing totally, but duty calls....... Leaving at early o'clock, 5ish on Thursday morning to try and drive to Kerry bag Howling and drive home all in the one day. Have been itching (pestering Pat) to come back and lead this climb for me. Its noted as the most beautiful and accessible mountaineering route on the island.....

Howling Ridge is today generally regarded as Ireland’s finest mountaineering route and is climbed hundreds of times annually by both Irish and overseas climbers. Originally it was done as an ice climb but today is best known as a summer route. It isn’t the most difficult ascent on Carrauntoohill (1039m) but is by far the most enjoyable. Indeed, Howling has become a rite-of-passage ascent for many eager to make the transition to the knee-knocking intensity of scrambling and dangling on rock faces. On sunny days, when the mountain is in friendly mood and sandstone offers excellent friction, Howling provides the heart-lifting feeling that comes with rising rapidly heavenward on a superb mountain face. In venomous mood, however, it lays many traps to snare the unwary and the consequences of simple mistakes have varied from extremely serious to fatal.

Graded a straightforward V Diff (in summer conditions), the Howling Ridge climb begins at the Heavenly Gates, which is a narrow notch in the cliffs on this north-east face. It’s about 400m of scrambling and climbing on old red sandstone, and approximately eight pitches if you rope the entire route. The real challenges are loose rock, exposure and the level of commitment needed. There is no easy way out once you are some way into this climb. In proper winter conditions it’s a Grade 2 to Grade 3 winter climb.

Rotator Cuff Tear

Howlin Ridge

Shoulder banjaxed for a few weeks now, seen the physio and am for a Cortisone Injection today. Rotator Cuff Tear am told, lay low for a few weeks and it should heal. Have been itching to have a go at Howlin Ridge in Kerry and have booked a weeks family holiday in Kenmare mid August to have a crack at it.... For somebody not that bothered about rock climbing & more into the mountaineering side of it, I have been thinking and googling nothing else! Bought a new Beal 60m rope and have started piecing a rack together. Toe still playing up also, nail growing every direction but the right direction. Sitting around eating, drinking and smoking means getting fat and lazy, will drop down to the climbing wall this week for a pick me up and inspiration. 

Midsummer Day's Dream

Knockdrinna

No flippin way

 Supposed to hit The Mournes for another spell on the granite today but was easily swayed into a full day in Kilkenny on two limestone quarries instead. It was a scorcher and the thought of two hours in the car either way to Co. Down was replaced with the enthusiasm of trying a bit of sports climbing. First stop Knockdrinna, not an easy one to find, but a beaut of a small isolated seldom climbed slab. Pat led the way as The Squirrel was well into hibernation this morning and wasn't to be roused. Well I never, the climbs were a tad hard, sports climbing is basically a pre-bolted route, it eliminates the focus on placing protection/gear and relies on strength and endurance. These grades were about 3 above my level at best, I got about two foot of the ground for the whole morning, Pat managed a cracker of a route West Fork F6a+, admittedly he ponced about it for a good hour previous but when it came good he sailed it. I was still throwing myself at it like a Jack Russel trying to mount your leg! This was the easy one and a lack of gym work showed up many weaknesses. We walked across and had a look at the harder sections of the quarry, no flippin way, it was like a brick wall 15m in height. I learned a good bit of roping techniques though so the morning was not a waste.

Amphitheatre

Ballykeefe

 
I was so glad to hear Pat say, "lets hit Ballykeefe Quarry, you might have a chance there". Another limestone terror, with an amphitheatre built within it, Pat is going to see a production of Midsummer Night's Dream there tomorrow night, cool spot to hang. And that's what I did, hang all day, zero strength, zero friction and zero success, bagged only one route (dont even think it had a name, a makey up job), looked the easiest on site. Pat marched up everything he chose as usual and was graciously trying to build me up by explaining the differences in difficulty in climbing lime compared to granite. Bit of soul searching pre the next outing, more gym work, rope work, quickdraw placing and a trip to the chiropodist. I will be back Ballykeefe, sleep with one eye open biatch........

Dalkey Quarry

Pat making it look way too easy

Great Gully Route, Fraughan Glen, Wicklow

Was hoping to pop up and do an Alpine route in the Wicklow Mountains this morning, Pat had located a cracking looking gully that would incorporate all the skills required for alpine rope work and technical slogging. This was changed to a morning on the famous Dalkey Quarry. Pat and Ciaran had arrived early, I was hoping to give them a head start and go for a few biggies before holding them back in the afternoon with my constant questioning and slow pace.  Not to be, first up a nice little top rope called Paradise Lost VDiff, felt a good warm up before abseiling down to have a crack at half of Moonlighter a VS. Its been a while since I was out on rock, I dont aspire to be a rock climber but I was sucking this up...... The boys were tops as usual, pulling moves an aul lad like me could only dream of. Ciaran took time to show me the location of his 70 foot fall that broke his back in 3 places, a nice little confidence booster!!!

The boys steamed up Thrust HVS, Ciaran took a tumble here last week and needed this, he ace'd it and in style. Pat humbly was the "Dope with the Rope" today, its nice to see him step back and give Ciaran the reigns to boost his climbing head for the summer months, but we were all sucking in the buzz Ciaran was having.

Distrust VS

Next up was myself again and I was to try a nice little VS next to Thrust called Distrust, a cracking looking Flake of granite that eventually tops out onto a grassy ending. This was a peach of a climb, only once or twice did I hesitate but the training kicked in and although not graceful it was some accomplishment for moi. Both lads are climbing instructors and the information volunteered is invaluable to a grommet like myself.  The lads are considering Spain again this autumn to do a few weeks mixed climbing but the sports climbing in Siurana sounds really appealing, better get saving so.

Motivated Squirrel in full flight

Next Step India

I might keep this going in India I might not. I will be adding photos and a little editorial/history on the places I have been upon my return. If you read this thanks, but it was really for the kids and for my family's benefit as they tend to worry.

Follow up:
Lets just say she hated India, (what girl wouldn't be chuffed with a man who says, "come over and join me for a week in India"), every single part of it, twas like Idiot Abroad on SKY, moan moan moan. Or was it just the company? The plot thickens......

Summary

When you remove the rose tinted glasses, the love everybody holiday attitude it's less than average. The food isn't something Egon Ronay would recommend, in fact its pretty bad. The street kids own nothing but the shirt on their back and the most magnificent smile. Hygiene don't exist. Everybody wants your money, you soon learn to see beneath the street hawkers friendliness. Thamel is copy central, nothing is real, nothing is priced to sell, nothing is tranquil, nothing is sacred. The hotels are filthy overpriced money traps. Would I wish my kids to see here, hell yes. I loved the madness of it all, all be it for only the first three days. The religious side of the country is refreshing, people live it every day although its not domineering, unlike the lip service on a Sunday back home.
Regards the climbing, weather was a major factor in not getting to summit Imja Tse but also and its hard to admit, I was a bit out of my depth! This is a tough place to come and climb successfully, even for seasoned stalwarts, after all its the playground for the best in the world. I believe with the camaraderie of a full expedition team I could achieve most and anyway being out of my depth actually drives me.
Did I find myself, well no. I did learn a lot about myself though be it things I have known but neglected for some time. My whole life is about me, I am a selfish person, my focus though has changed, be it intermittently or be it for good, only time will tell. I missed my family unit terribly. I realise that I am a driven individual who aspires beyond his means (some may say Im a dreamer). Its a long time to spend on your own, I don't like being on my own. I seen things I never want to see again, I seen things that I would love to see again but probably never will.
I fulfilled my dream to come to Everest, I seen my favourite mountains, the biggest and the best in the world. I walked through the Rhododendron Forests above Namche Bazaar that I have read about since I was a boy. I embraced the culture and was humbled by its simplicity. The rural sects of Nepal are fantastic, the mix of cultures fascinating. The brief touching of nature in the jungle was an added bonus. In my life there is no room for concessions, I never look back and regret (only not joining the army but hey). When I get an idea into my head, be it negative or positive I am driven without compromise by some force or another. I may yet discover I have made the wrong decisions but I have loved the adventure so far. I regard all this as stepping away from the mundane life of home, others say it's running away. Its not as simple as that but there is some truth in the thought........

                            

     Big thanks to Jeremy for the fantastic photos, I will post my own soon.....

Visa Baby!

Embassy at early o'clock, was nervous as hell felt like a job interview. Back at 5pm to collect visa and passport. Found a KFC, only one in Nepal, best meal I have had since arriving on these shores. Was here for a total of 9 nights, about 8 to many. Bags packed, bought a pair of skinny jeans (i know) and feel like the night before Christmas.....

Krapmandu

Had two beers last night and wake dog rough??? Elephant Safari thing at 8am and I arrived there after a half hours jeep ride to realise it wasnt my cup of tea. Reminded me a bit of Donkeys on Brighton beach so I swerved it. It was just un-natural to see such a beautiful animal used like that, it was so staged. Car back to Kathmandu great, 5 hours of it. Arrived back in KTM and standing on balcony having a fag when I spot 4 kids no older than 7 or so with a goat, they tied its two front legs and one of them held its head while the other kid slit its throat! It wasnt that bad really, bit humbling to see kids that age have to kill their own food. Met with Suman (owner of jungle resort) for a light lunch and he showed up with some celeb from Nepaleese telly, mad to see peeps stopping and asking for autographs, he flies to Dublin next week to do a stand up show, something to do with Nepal New Year. So meeting with Ros day after tomorrow, I have to go back to the Indian Embassy twice tomorrow to finalise visa. Fingers crossed......

Paradise Is Not Lost

Fell into a real lazy mode and didnt fancy anything today only to lounge around the hotel, work on the tan and pick up some tit tat for the kids. Walked along riverside for a few hours and sat and watched my last sunset over paradise. Cultural evening in the hotel at eight bells, not up to much really. Thats it......

WTF Am I Doing Here.....

  
10am and I am on foot, looking for Tigers in 12 foot high grass in the jungle of a place that's pronounced Shit One (Chitwan)! Now to me there's only two ways I am going to find this tiger; 1, step on its tail or 2, said tiger decides to find me, either option I don't like..... I have a guide at the front and one behind, armed with sticks only. Its the one time in my life where I am actually wishing I have wasted my money here. Day starts off nice and early with a river canoe trip, looking for Crocs but as its a bit overcast not many are bathing. Back to the gaff for a light breakfast and then changed into swim wear to go and bathe the hotels elephant, now I have ridden a few elephants in my life boom boom, but nothing quite like this. Spent a good hour messing in the river, must say it is one of the best things I have ever done. 5 hour jeep safari in the late afternoon, spotted loads of Rhino, Monkeys, Elephants, Deer, Crocs, Wild Boar and stuff but not the elusive Tiger. Jungle floor is alive with creepy crawlies, you can actually hear them dropping from the canopy above all around you. One regret is not having a decent camera as its hard on a thing you picked up in Tescos to get the true picture of the place. Bumped into a Dutch guy I met in Everest so sat chatting to him for an hour mid afternoon. Great dinner and into the local town with the lads from the hotel, had a few pints! I know I know, kinda feel bad about it, kinda don't. This doesn't mean I will be found in 6 months in some Opium Farm in the mountains.... It was only a pint!

Crazy Frog

Ok so the kid for my 5 hour saga shows up at hotel on time, but is about 15!!!! Well i never, it obviously was his first day behind a steering wheel. After an hours driving I was actually shouting at him, got out of the car at one point and gave him a tirade of abuse refusing to get back in if he drives. Trying to sum up the roads is hard, but when a bus drives past with 12 goats tied to the roof and kids hanging out of the windows you can imagine the scene, saw 4 people on a motorbike, a mother her two kids, smallest about a year max and the man driving had a chicken on his shoulder!  So this driver honestly couldnt use the gears (stalled about 50 times before getting out of the city), he couldnt steer, brake or have any concept in the theory of driving lines. Got to the resort finally, he is supposed to stay the 4 days also and drive back, told him to fuck off and refused to pay. The city of Chitwans a real pit, we are about half an hour outside in a beautiful jungle resort, it is so nice, elephants walking down the street n stuff. People cant do enough for you although the 36 degree heat is toast. Went on a great walk today to Elephant Sanctuary and seen 2 wild rhinos in the bush en route, sat for an hour or so on the lakeside watching them drink and the sun set. Resort is busy, hotel quiet although another 17 rooms fill tomorrow. Is number one on Trip Adviser and it shows.

Im a Celebrity....

So blog folks I is heading down to this Safari Resort tomorrow for 4 days. www.junglesafarilodge.com Bumped into the dude that owns the gaff and by chance he lived in Dundrum for 11 years! Bonus, special price for The Mickster and an extra night thrown in for gratis. Went to Roadhouse Cafe for dinner last night believing it would be a safe bet,not quite. Didnt leave the room today, was banging away at tabs all morning thinking they was Imodium, googled the name on the packet and they were antihistimines, at least I wont get hay fever! I dont do buses as I turn green after 10 mins so have a car booked for the 100 mile journey in the morning, 5 hours it should take. Have packed my bag to suit the Altitude Climb and not sub tropics of the south, so will be winging it with a pair of flip flops 2 tees and a pair of shorts. Found out today that my bank only authorises 100 euro a day withdrawl, so if you receive a reverse charges call its moi. Met that mate from Singapore for dinner,we descended from Base Camp together and he was a little slower missing my flight, he just got back today! Stuck for 4 days in Lukla. Typed this blog earlier and the computer crashed,so this is my second time around, its well shorter and not half as good. Night folks.....

Happy Birthday.....

Happy birthday Ros, ok so you need a visa too, slight oversight on my side, enjoy your birthday queing in the Indian Embassy Dublin.... So Im stuck in Nepal for a week, 5 working days to stamp a bloody visa. Means herself will be in Delhi for a few hours before I get in. Ooooops. On the plus side, I will now head down to Chitwan to the Elephant Sanctuary about 100 miles away and go on a jungle safari for 3 days, met a good English bloke last night Pomey, oh and he only has 3 toes! Lost the rest climbing Everest in 2006, made Leroy look a bit of a girl.... Spent the day in that line at the visa office, not much else really. Fella who stayed in the same lodges in the mountains with me Jeremy, has been stranded in Lukla airport for past 4 days and arrives back in Kathmandu tomorrow. Looking forward to not eating on my own for a few days. Might update later, might not......

What Visa????????????????

So after an event-full morning mending poor Leroy and feeling sorry for myself, I decided to try and book my flight on to India, things going well, boys kept office open for me until 6pm. Im in here, I was thinking to myself... Then after the booking made blah blah, dude asks me for my Indian Visa... Oooooops, what visa? So to cut a long one, I have to line up tomorrow at Indian Embassy (you can imagine the efficiency) from 8am and try to get a visa for India entry, bloke was not convincing when he states "Be early, big line of people". Next flight in 5 days to India, bollox. Running for the office closing time in flip flops and sliced me other big toe on supposed pavement, so today both toes hurt and to top it all I went and got another tattoo on me back (bored and not drinking leads to an idle mind)... Wanted the Joy Division song title "Love will tear us apart" across my lower back for years and for 23 quid you couldn't turn it down, although the medical bills for the Hepatitis will probably balance out in the long run. Kids ringing tonight, looking well forwards to that, currently residing above the Bob Marley Bar, if I hear "No Woman no Cry" one flippin more time! On the plus side, if I had arrived in Kathmandu airport day before meeting Ros, I would never have got to Udaipur and Ros would just love a week in Kathmandu..... Nite blog folk.

Leroy in full glory!

I know most of you couldn't sleep last night worrying about the toe, hopped across to international medical centre this morning and after departing with 30 notes, roughly a months salary round these parts, I was informed the injury was due to impact of the boot when descending for 11 hours and not frost nip as first self diagnosed....

Leroy the Toe

Ok so I woke this morning with a black toe, now I aint no doctor but I can tell somethings up! Going to let it sit for a few days but the nail is on its last legs. Headed round to SPCC (climbing authority in Nepal) and Island Peak is closed again!!!!!! This has seriously fecked the whole climb. I am 3 days away from Island Peak, a 2 day climb and a 3 day descent, then a gamble for flights to meet the Rosmeister in Delhi. So with much regret I had to abandon my goal. Disappointed much! Too cold to hang about so lashed it down to Lukla in 6 hours and boarded (blagged on) a cargo plane to the hole that is Kathmandu.... On a plus side one of the nicest moments of the whole trip was handing out the colour pencils to the orphans today, nearly broke my heart and made me miss my kids even more. Big thanks to Ash for organising this, it really was a special thing to do..... So I am 6 days early, have flights to India so might head early and see Delhi before flying down to Udaipur with herself. Am I gutted about climb, well a little bit although I did everything else I wanted to and these setbacks happen often in this game. To be honest it was the only thing pushing me on up there, I hadnt enjoyed the last 2 days with the weather turning bad. It was supposed to be fun and running for your life aint no fun..... Onward and upwards, chin up old bean, blah blah blah. Will keep you posted of where next!

Get the feck outta here day!

Woke at 7am, whole camp had legged it at first light 5am... the shit has hit the fan regards weather. Things bleak, teams stranded by massive snow fall all around us. We decided to swerve the chopper evac and leg it, 11 feckin hours later we arrive in Namche Bazaar again. Blizzards and knee deep snow is best way to describe the descent, although the altitude sickness has gone totally. Island peak closed and flights to and from Lukla are cancelled for 3 days!!! We have to sit this storm out and decide tomorrow on plan b.... Hot shower and steak dinner helped ease the pain.  

Not Mothers Day, phew.....

Landed in Gorak Shep (Everest Base Camp), remote and cold but for the first few hours the views rocked. Seen the Khumbu Ice Fall and it was magnificent, really glows an ice blue colour. Ok so here wins as the coldest yet! Played a bit of frizbee at 5.5 km high, lasted 10 minutes..... Head bouncing but pills seem to work a bit! Snow getting savage, has dumped 2 foot in past hour or so. Air so thin, can really notice when smoking, still banging 20 a day, tosser.

Lobuche

Reached the magic 5000m, head still pounding and the tablets make the stomach sick. Was tempted to down Diamox (Alt sickness tabs) but as this contains an Amphetamine, I dont think work would be too pleased if tested!! Have eaten nowt for 24 hours weak as a kitten, right grumpy bollox. Lodge great packed out, played cards til late. Am filthy but too cold to shower, snow falling thick and fast again.

Tough Day At The Office Part 2

Woke at 4.30am, with blinding Altitude Headache, never been as cold in my life. Watch shows -20 degrees in the room! Broke trail at lightning speed, stopped for lunch and headache back for matinee, was sick as, whole way to Periche, this is a shortcut to shave a day off trek but found I needed that extra day really. Snow coming thick and fast, lost most of views from about 1pm. Everythng in room has frozen by bed time 8.30pm, even the flippin pee bottle. Not much to report only cold cold cold......

Tough Day At The Office

Strong as an ox this morning, first half of trek a gift, second half a real slog. Tengboche kinda cold, infact freezing. Weather has turned somewhat, had a bucket shower and found if you actually stand in said bucket it kinda helps. Am slap bang at the bottom of Ama Dablam, sad having a top 5 fave mountains but this is my numero uno. Had a dog follow us for the 5 hour trek today we named him Tixa which means ok in Nepalese, he soon fucked off though when there was no food for him in Tengboche. Nice monestary up here, is famous for something or another, prob being highest in the world at a guess... currently at 3860m. Still havnt found myself but was not expecting to either.

Few piccies on way

                                          Yak Yak Yak

                                          Namche Bazaar

                                          Kathmandu Temple

                                          Kathmandu Madness