Monday 1 August 2011

Kit update...

Been stocking up for forthcoming trips, have a list as long as your arm but gradually gathering bits n bobs monthly, will leave test reviews when I finally get around to using them.


Basically shaving away all possible metal to make a lightweight biner for rock, ice and alpine routes, chose DMM Prowire as my first set. Went for one of the lightest on the market to balance out my chubby ass. DMM's original lightweight quickdraw, the DMM Prowire offers all the advantages of a wiregate karabiner at a reasonable enough price. Man in shop says "If you want to lighten your rack, buy these. If you want DMM quality and design heritage, buy these. If blue is your favourite colour, buy these!" Sold!
To a seasoned stalwart, a rope probably has a soul, a heart and a gentle touch. To me its a rope, so went for a coated 60m Beal 10.2mm jobby. Looks good in purple and feels like it will hold my weight if I decide to fall, it might see daylight come Thursday in Kerry.
From Backcountry.com:
"Representing the divine balance between durability and low weight, the Beal Edlinger II is sure to give you wings on your next project. With a 10.2 mm diameter, this cord travels smoothly over rock and through carabiners, providing a lightweight, easy-to-clip connection to the stone. So, if you're looking for a rope that's not too thin, yet not too heavy - the Edlinger is your ticket."


Was toying with going all out and buying a 4 season tent that weighed the same as my toothbrush, pure overkill with a price tag to match, for the first time ever I think I went with the sensible option. I have so far this year needed a tent on zero occasions. Birthday coming up so kids bought me the Vango Banshee 200, a lightweight tent that is designed for backpackers, trekkers and mountain enthusiasts, the tent will accommodate two people but it is a tight squeeze and a bit Brokeback Mountain if shared. However, the tent was never designed to be roomy, more to economise on weight and pack size for those needing to carry as little weight as possible.



The Vango Banshee has a couple of key features which make it such a popular choice of tent. Firstly, it is lightweight and portable whilst the small pack size is also a key component. The tent is also very stable in the wind and any other forms of adverse weather conditions due to the fact it has a low profile and a solid design structure. Picked the red one, something different and if I ever do get into trouble I gathered it would be easier to spot from a chopper than the green one. Genius.
The JetBoil Flash/Group Cooking System takes fast, light, and efficient to a whole new level in this updated version of a revolutionary camping stove. Whether you’re melting snow in Alaska, making coffee on a big wall, or boiling water for dehydrated food on a backpacking trip, this stove should be my smallest and warmest back country friend.

Have also gone for the 1.5L pot add on, to rustle up some gourmet delights. Key features include a one-liter insulated mug, piezo auto ignition, water temperature indicator, and a lock that secures the stove and pot in one stable unit. There hasn't been a lot of good options until now, so this little gem of a lightweight stove caught my eye. They could maybe partner with Crocs to offer a line of coordinated camp shoes! Would look good in any kitchen but on first impressions it needs to man up a bit for the rugged outdoors. Grrrrrrrrrrrr.
When it comes to sunnys I is worse than any woman with bags/shoes..... I had been wearing Oakley Fuel Cells for the past year but hated them, at a cost of £135  it was becoming an expensive hobby. Stumbled across Sunwise http://www.sunwise.co.uk/ , a pioneering British brand who is making cracking shades at a fraction of the price. To date the most expensive pair I have bought cost £35 and were Polarised.  Started on the Windrush, come with 4 sets of lenses and a great pair to pop in the pocket and not worry about. The Oakleys have a habit of when you sweat, it runs down the inside of the glass.... these bad boys don't. 
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Windrush
Picked up the Bude Polarised in White for a steal, nice casual shades that perform well and are nice for driving in.
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Bude Polarised
Next t be ordered were the Waterloos, another Polarised lens with Chromofusion, basically darkens the brighter it gets, really liked the flat arm profile that sits well below a climbing helmet or cap.
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Waterloo

Macgillycuddy's Reeks - Carrauntoohil

Update: Trip cancelled, climbing buddy got in a days work with a group on Dalkey Quarry instructing. 


Shoulder still aches badly, physio is gonna rip my nuts off as she asked me to lay up for 2 weeks. Toe is on the mend and only about a week away from healing totally, but duty calls....... Leaving at early o'clock, 5ish on Thursday morning to try and drive to Kerry bag Howling and drive home all in the one day. Have been itching (pestering Pat) to come back and lead this climb for me. Its noted as the most beautiful and accessible mountaineering route on the island.....
Howling Ridge is today generally regarded as Ireland’s finest mountaineering route and is climbed hundreds of times annually by both Irish and overseas climbers. Originally it was done as an ice climb but today is best known as a summer route. It isn’t the most difficult ascent on Carrauntoohill (1039m) but is by far the most enjoyable. Indeed, Howling has become a rite-of-passage ascent for many eager to make the transition to the knee-knocking intensity of scrambling and dangling on rock faces. On sunny days, when the mountain is in friendly mood and sandstone offers excellent friction, Howling provides the heart-lifting feeling that comes with rising rapidly heavenward on a superb mountain face. In venomous mood, however, it lays many traps to snare the unwary and the consequences of simple mistakes have varied from extremely serious to fatal.
Graded a straightforward V Diff (in summer conditions), the Howling Ridge climb begins at the Heavenly Gates, which is a narrow notch in the cliffs on this north-east face. It’s about 400m of scrambling and climbing on old red sandstone, and approximately eight pitches if you rope the entire route. The real challenges are loose rock, exposure and the level of commitment needed. There is no easy way out once you are some way into this climb. In proper winter conditions it’s a Grade 2 to Grade 3 winter climb.