Rotator Cuff Tear

Howlin Ridge

Shoulder banjaxed for a few weeks now, seen the physio and am for a Cortisone Injection today. Rotator Cuff Tear am told, lay low for a few weeks and it should heal. Have been itching to have a go at Howlin Ridge in Kerry and have booked a weeks family holiday in Kenmare mid August to have a crack at it.... For somebody not that bothered about rock climbing & more into the mountaineering side of it, I have been thinking and googling nothing else! Bought a new Beal 60m rope and have started piecing a rack together. Toe still playing up also, nail growing every direction but the right direction. Sitting around eating, drinking and smoking means getting fat and lazy, will drop down to the climbing wall this week for a pick me up and inspiration. 

Midsummer Day's Dream

Knockdrinna

No flippin way

 Supposed to hit The Mournes for another spell on the granite today but was easily swayed into a full day in Kilkenny on two limestone quarries instead. It was a scorcher and the thought of two hours in the car either way to Co. Down was replaced with the enthusiasm of trying a bit of sports climbing. First stop Knockdrinna, not an easy one to find, but a beaut of a small isolated seldom climbed slab. Pat led the way as The Squirrel was well into hibernation this morning and wasn't to be roused. Well I never, the climbs were a tad hard, sports climbing is basically a pre-bolted route, it eliminates the focus on placing protection/gear and relies on strength and endurance. These grades were about 3 above my level at best, I got about two foot of the ground for the whole morning, Pat managed a cracker of a route West Fork F6a+, admittedly he ponced about it for a good hour previous but when it came good he sailed it. I was still throwing myself at it like a Jack Russel trying to mount your leg! This was the easy one and a lack of gym work showed up many weaknesses. We walked across and had a look at the harder sections of the quarry, no flippin way, it was like a brick wall 15m in height. I learned a good bit of roping techniques though so the morning was not a waste.

Amphitheatre

Ballykeefe

 
I was so glad to hear Pat say, "lets hit Ballykeefe Quarry, you might have a chance there". Another limestone terror, with an amphitheatre built within it, Pat is going to see a production of Midsummer Night's Dream there tomorrow night, cool spot to hang. And that's what I did, hang all day, zero strength, zero friction and zero success, bagged only one route (dont even think it had a name, a makey up job), looked the easiest on site. Pat marched up everything he chose as usual and was graciously trying to build me up by explaining the differences in difficulty in climbing lime compared to granite. Bit of soul searching pre the next outing, more gym work, rope work, quickdraw placing and a trip to the chiropodist. I will be back Ballykeefe, sleep with one eye open biatch........

Dalkey Quarry

Pat making it look way too easy

Great Gully Route, Fraughan Glen, Wicklow

Was hoping to pop up and do an Alpine route in the Wicklow Mountains this morning, Pat had located a cracking looking gully that would incorporate all the skills required for alpine rope work and technical slogging. This was changed to a morning on the famous Dalkey Quarry. Pat and Ciaran had arrived early, I was hoping to give them a head start and go for a few biggies before holding them back in the afternoon with my constant questioning and slow pace.  Not to be, first up a nice little top rope called Paradise Lost VDiff, felt a good warm up before abseiling down to have a crack at half of Moonlighter a VS. Its been a while since I was out on rock, I dont aspire to be a rock climber but I was sucking this up...... The boys were tops as usual, pulling moves an aul lad like me could only dream of. Ciaran took time to show me the location of his 70 foot fall that broke his back in 3 places, a nice little confidence booster!!!

The boys steamed up Thrust HVS, Ciaran took a tumble here last week and needed this, he ace'd it and in style. Pat humbly was the "Dope with the Rope" today, its nice to see him step back and give Ciaran the reigns to boost his climbing head for the summer months, but we were all sucking in the buzz Ciaran was having.

Distrust VS

Next up was myself again and I was to try a nice little VS next to Thrust called Distrust, a cracking looking Flake of granite that eventually tops out onto a grassy ending. This was a peach of a climb, only once or twice did I hesitate but the training kicked in and although not graceful it was some accomplishment for moi. Both lads are climbing instructors and the information volunteered is invaluable to a grommet like myself.  The lads are considering Spain again this autumn to do a few weeks mixed climbing but the sports climbing in Siurana sounds really appealing, better get saving so.

Motivated Squirrel in full flight