Kit update...

Been stocking up for forthcoming trips, have a list as long as your arm but gradually gathering bits n bobs monthly, will leave test reviews when I finally get around to using them.


Basically shaving away all possible metal to make a lightweight biner for rock, ice and alpine routes, chose DMM Prowire as my first set. Went for one of the lightest on the market to balance out my chubby ass. DMM's original lightweight quickdraw, the DMM Prowire offers all the advantages of a wiregate karabiner at a reasonable enough price. Man in shop says "If you want to lighten your rack, buy these. If you want DMM quality and design heritage, buy these. If blue is your favourite colour, buy these!" Sold!

To a seasoned stalwart, a rope probably has a soul, a heart and a gentle touch. To me its a rope, so went for a coated 60m Beal 10.2mm jobby. Looks good in purple and feels like it will hold my weight if I decide to fall, it might see daylight come Thursday in Kerry.
From Backcountry.com:
"Representing the divine balance between durability and low weight, the Beal Edlinger II is sure to give you wings on your next project. With a 10.2 mm diameter, this cord travels smoothly over rock and through carabiners, providing a lightweight, easy-to-clip connection to the stone. So, if you're looking for a rope that's not too thin, yet not too heavy - the Edlinger is your ticket."

Was toying with going all out and buying a 4 season tent that weighed the same as my toothbrush, pure overkill with a price tag to match, for the first time ever I think I went with the sensible option. I have so far this year needed a tent on zero occasions. Birthday coming up so kids bought me the Vango Banshee 200, a lightweight tent that is designed for backpackers, trekkers and mountain enthusiasts, the tent will accommodate two people but it is a tight squeeze and a bit Brokeback Mountain if shared. However, the tent was never designed to be roomy, more to economise on weight and pack size for those needing to carry as little weight as possible.

The Vango Banshee has a couple of key features which make it such a popular choice of tent. Firstly, it is lightweight and portable whilst the small pack size is also a key component. The tent is also very stable in the wind and any other forms of adverse weather conditions due to the fact it has a low profile and a solid design structure. Picked the red one, something different and if I ever do get into trouble I gathered it would be easier to spot from a chopper than the green one. Genius.

The JetBoil Flash/Group Cooking System takes fast, light, and efficient to a whole new level in this updated version of a revolutionary camping stove. Whether you’re melting snow in Alaska, making coffee on a big wall, or boiling water for dehydrated food on a backpacking trip, this stove should be my smallest and warmest back country friend.

Have also gone for the 1.5L pot add on, to rustle up some gourmet delights. Key features include a one-liter insulated mug, piezo auto ignition, water temperature indicator, and a lock that secures the stove and pot in one stable unit. There hasn't been a lot of good options until now, so this little gem of a lightweight stove caught my eye. They could maybe partner with Crocs to offer a line of coordinated camp shoes! Would look good in any kitchen but on first impressions it needs to man up a bit for the rugged outdoors. Grrrrrrrrrrrr.

When it comes to sunnys I is worse than any woman with bags/shoes..... I had been wearing Oakley Fuel Cells for the past year but hated them, at a cost of £135  it was becoming an expensive hobby. Stumbled across Sunwise http://www.sunwise.co.uk/ , a pioneering British brand who is making cracking shades at a fraction of the price. To date the most expensive pair I have bought cost £35 and were Polarised.  Started on the Windrush, come with 4 sets of lenses and a great pair to pop in the pocket and not worry about. The Oakleys have a habit of when you sweat, it runs down the inside of the glass.... these bad boys don't. 

Windrush

Picked up the Bude Polarised in White for a steal, nice casual shades that perform well and are nice for driving in.

Bude Polarised

Next t be ordered were the Waterloos, another Polarised lens with Chromofusion, basically darkens the brighter it gets, really liked the flat arm profile that sits well below a climbing helmet or cap.

Waterloo

Macgillycuddy's Reeks - Carrauntoohil

Update: Trip cancelled, climbing buddy got in a days work with a group on Dalkey Quarry instructing. 


Shoulder still aches badly, physio is gonna rip my nuts off as she asked me to lay up for 2 weeks. Toe is on the mend and only about a week away from healing totally, but duty calls....... Leaving at early o'clock, 5ish on Thursday morning to try and drive to Kerry bag Howling and drive home all in the one day. Have been itching (pestering Pat) to come back and lead this climb for me. Its noted as the most beautiful and accessible mountaineering route on the island.....

Howling Ridge is today generally regarded as Ireland’s finest mountaineering route and is climbed hundreds of times annually by both Irish and overseas climbers. Originally it was done as an ice climb but today is best known as a summer route. It isn’t the most difficult ascent on Carrauntoohill (1039m) but is by far the most enjoyable. Indeed, Howling has become a rite-of-passage ascent for many eager to make the transition to the knee-knocking intensity of scrambling and dangling on rock faces. On sunny days, when the mountain is in friendly mood and sandstone offers excellent friction, Howling provides the heart-lifting feeling that comes with rising rapidly heavenward on a superb mountain face. In venomous mood, however, it lays many traps to snare the unwary and the consequences of simple mistakes have varied from extremely serious to fatal.

Graded a straightforward V Diff (in summer conditions), the Howling Ridge climb begins at the Heavenly Gates, which is a narrow notch in the cliffs on this north-east face. It’s about 400m of scrambling and climbing on old red sandstone, and approximately eight pitches if you rope the entire route. The real challenges are loose rock, exposure and the level of commitment needed. There is no easy way out once you are some way into this climb. In proper winter conditions it’s a Grade 2 to Grade 3 winter climb.

Rotator Cuff Tear

Howlin Ridge

Shoulder banjaxed for a few weeks now, seen the physio and am for a Cortisone Injection today. Rotator Cuff Tear am told, lay low for a few weeks and it should heal. Have been itching to have a go at Howlin Ridge in Kerry and have booked a weeks family holiday in Kenmare mid August to have a crack at it.... For somebody not that bothered about rock climbing & more into the mountaineering side of it, I have been thinking and googling nothing else! Bought a new Beal 60m rope and have started piecing a rack together. Toe still playing up also, nail growing every direction but the right direction. Sitting around eating, drinking and smoking means getting fat and lazy, will drop down to the climbing wall this week for a pick me up and inspiration. 

Midsummer Day's Dream

Knockdrinna

No flippin way

 Supposed to hit The Mournes for another spell on the granite today but was easily swayed into a full day in Kilkenny on two limestone quarries instead. It was a scorcher and the thought of two hours in the car either way to Co. Down was replaced with the enthusiasm of trying a bit of sports climbing. First stop Knockdrinna, not an easy one to find, but a beaut of a small isolated seldom climbed slab. Pat led the way as The Squirrel was well into hibernation this morning and wasn't to be roused. Well I never, the climbs were a tad hard, sports climbing is basically a pre-bolted route, it eliminates the focus on placing protection/gear and relies on strength and endurance. These grades were about 3 above my level at best, I got about two foot of the ground for the whole morning, Pat managed a cracker of a route West Fork F6a+, admittedly he ponced about it for a good hour previous but when it came good he sailed it. I was still throwing myself at it like a Jack Russel trying to mount your leg! This was the easy one and a lack of gym work showed up many weaknesses. We walked across and had a look at the harder sections of the quarry, no flippin way, it was like a brick wall 15m in height. I learned a good bit of roping techniques though so the morning was not a waste.

Amphitheatre

Ballykeefe

 
I was so glad to hear Pat say, "lets hit Ballykeefe Quarry, you might have a chance there". Another limestone terror, with an amphitheatre built within it, Pat is going to see a production of Midsummer Night's Dream there tomorrow night, cool spot to hang. And that's what I did, hang all day, zero strength, zero friction and zero success, bagged only one route (dont even think it had a name, a makey up job), looked the easiest on site. Pat marched up everything he chose as usual and was graciously trying to build me up by explaining the differences in difficulty in climbing lime compared to granite. Bit of soul searching pre the next outing, more gym work, rope work, quickdraw placing and a trip to the chiropodist. I will be back Ballykeefe, sleep with one eye open biatch........

Dalkey Quarry

Pat making it look way too easy

Great Gully Route, Fraughan Glen, Wicklow

Was hoping to pop up and do an Alpine route in the Wicklow Mountains this morning, Pat had located a cracking looking gully that would incorporate all the skills required for alpine rope work and technical slogging. This was changed to a morning on the famous Dalkey Quarry. Pat and Ciaran had arrived early, I was hoping to give them a head start and go for a few biggies before holding them back in the afternoon with my constant questioning and slow pace.  Not to be, first up a nice little top rope called Paradise Lost VDiff, felt a good warm up before abseiling down to have a crack at half of Moonlighter a VS. Its been a while since I was out on rock, I dont aspire to be a rock climber but I was sucking this up...... The boys were tops as usual, pulling moves an aul lad like me could only dream of. Ciaran took time to show me the location of his 70 foot fall that broke his back in 3 places, a nice little confidence booster!!!

The boys steamed up Thrust HVS, Ciaran took a tumble here last week and needed this, he ace'd it and in style. Pat humbly was the "Dope with the Rope" today, its nice to see him step back and give Ciaran the reigns to boost his climbing head for the summer months, but we were all sucking in the buzz Ciaran was having.

Distrust VS

Next up was myself again and I was to try a nice little VS next to Thrust called Distrust, a cracking looking Flake of granite that eventually tops out onto a grassy ending. This was a peach of a climb, only once or twice did I hesitate but the training kicked in and although not graceful it was some accomplishment for moi. Both lads are climbing instructors and the information volunteered is invaluable to a grommet like myself.  The lads are considering Spain again this autumn to do a few weeks mixed climbing but the sports climbing in Siurana sounds really appealing, better get saving so.

Motivated Squirrel in full flight

Next Step India

I might keep this going in India I might not. I will be adding photos and a little editorial/history on the places I have been upon my return. If you read this thanks, but it was really for the kids and for my family's benefit as they tend to worry.

Follow up:
Lets just say she hated India, (what girl wouldn't be chuffed with a man who says, "come over and join me for a week in India"), every single part of it, twas like Idiot Abroad on SKY, moan moan moan. Or was it just the company? The plot thickens......

Summary

When you remove the rose tinted glasses, the love everybody holiday attitude it's less than average. The food isn't something Egon Ronay would recommend, in fact its pretty bad. The street kids own nothing but the shirt on their back and the most magnificent smile. Hygiene don't exist. Everybody wants your money, you soon learn to see beneath the street hawkers friendliness. Thamel is copy central, nothing is real, nothing is priced to sell, nothing is tranquil, nothing is sacred. The hotels are filthy overpriced money traps. Would I wish my kids to see here, hell yes. I loved the madness of it all, all be it for only the first three days. The religious side of the country is refreshing, people live it every day although its not domineering, unlike the lip service on a Sunday back home.
Regards the climbing, weather was a major factor in not getting to summit Imja Tse but also and its hard to admit, I was a bit out of my depth! This is a tough place to come and climb successfully, even for seasoned stalwarts, after all its the playground for the best in the world. I believe with the camaraderie of a full expedition team I could achieve most and anyway being out of my depth actually drives me.
Did I find myself, well no. I did learn a lot about myself though be it things I have known but neglected for some time. My whole life is about me, I am a selfish person, my focus though has changed, be it intermittently or be it for good, only time will tell. I missed my family unit terribly. I realise that I am a driven individual who aspires beyond his means (some may say Im a dreamer). Its a long time to spend on your own, I don't like being on my own. I seen things I never want to see again, I seen things that I would love to see again but probably never will.
I fulfilled my dream to come to Everest, I seen my favourite mountains, the biggest and the best in the world. I walked through the Rhododendron Forests above Namche Bazaar that I have read about since I was a boy. I embraced the culture and was humbled by its simplicity. The rural sects of Nepal are fantastic, the mix of cultures fascinating. The brief touching of nature in the jungle was an added bonus. In my life there is no room for concessions, I never look back and regret (only not joining the army but hey). When I get an idea into my head, be it negative or positive I am driven without compromise by some force or another. I may yet discover I have made the wrong decisions but I have loved the adventure so far. I regard all this as stepping away from the mundane life of home, others say it's running away. Its not as simple as that but there is some truth in the thought........

                            

     Big thanks to Jeremy for the fantastic photos, I will post my own soon.....